My favorite…
I’m often asked, “what’s your favorite…?” in Rome. I share some answers below, but I believe that the best part about traveling is discovering your own favorites. That said, I can’t help but share some of mine here. Are these the best such places/items? Not necessarily. But I love them all the same.
Fountain
Rome has thousands, and the most famous, to Americans, is likely the Trevi Fountain. But my favorite is the Acqua Paola. (Or, as a Roman taxi driver insisted to me, it’s called the really big nose, or nasone grand—if you just say ‘nasone,’ that only gets you a drinking fountain.) It’s a steep climb but a glorious sight (and site) and the view over Rome (as seen in the banner photograph above) is spectacular in late afternoon.
Breakfast treat
In the book, my protagonist falls in love with maritozzi, and you will too if you go to Il Maritozzaro. Get extra napkins.
Gelato
My favorite gelato changes just about every trip to Rome; as a general rule of thumb, the less outside signage, the better. Chains seem to have taken over so many of my old spots. But my current fave is Fatamorgana (which does have more than one location); its flavors are reliably weird (and delightful).
Bread
The initial draft of this favorites page didn’t include this category; my wife was horrified. One of her favorite things to eat in Rome—one of her favorite things to do, is go to Roscioli and get a loaf of bread. It’s true: it’s transcendent. We bought a loaf one day to take home for dinner only to consume the whole thing en route. Note: there’s a Roscioli restaurant right around the corner, but often has a wait; the counter is speedier though there’s less space to stand and eat. (And no, I’ve not been to the one in NYC.)
Evening view
The orange grove (Giardino degli Aranci) atop one of Rome’s hills is the perfect spot for early evening. It’s not far from the Circo Massimo, though a climb, and close by the Knights of Malta keyhole (which is cool, but not worth the wait if there is one).
Hotel
The Donna Camilla Savelli is located off the beaten path in Trastevere, which means it’s not the most convenient spot, but it’s absolutely exquisite. And the property is a former convent, so…well if it’s not apparent why that’s of interest to me, you need to read the book!
Restaurant
One restaurant? You want me to pick one favorite? I can’t. I can only say that on the last night of my last trip to Rome, my wife, daughter, and I found this mirage of a restaurant after a long day of walking and it was magical. The food and wine and terrace were lovely. Everyone was local, including the pet dog someone had brought. The street (was it even a street?) could not have been quieter and the improbability of the setting made it all the more special. This place is too much of a hole-in-the-wall to make any guidebooks, but that’s another reason I love it: Ristorante Controluce.
Coffee
Here’s where I really get in trouble. My favorite coffee place in Rome is absolutely anywhere that sells coffee. The old coffee bar by the Pantheon that guidebooks love? Sure. But I love an espresso anywhere, even at tiny shops that sell bus passes. The two key ingredients: the coffee, plus the fact that you drink it right there (no exceptions! don’t ask for a takeaway!). Sip and savor and study your map to see what favorite spot you’ll find next.
Book
Here, too, I have trouble picking just one—but The Week let me pick six. If you really must settle for just one book, the Blue Guide Rome by Alta Macadam and Annabel Barber (2020) really is everything you need between two covers. (Then again, have you checked out this book about Rome?)